INDIA AND THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES
PESHAWAR * LAHORE * KARACHI * BOMBAY *
PESHAWAR * LAHORE * KARACHI * BOMBAY *
CAWNPORE * LUCKNOW
Researched, illustrated and written by George W. Randall.
co-founder in July 1996 and former
Vice Chairman Kinloch Castle Friends' Association.
GEORGE BULLOUGH – WORLD TOUR 1892-1895
Article 11 of 28 * Time of visit January / February 1893
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George Bullough (right) was twenty-two years old when he embarked on a
three year world tour with his travelling companion, Robert Mitchell,
in September 1892.
Bullough’s
father, John, owner of Howard & Bullough, Ltd., cotton machinery manufacturers,
Accrington, England, died on the 25th of March 1891, three days short of George’s coming of age,
leaving his eldest son a very
wealthy young man.
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The world they
travelled was a car free world,
a very different world,
a world now
beyond living memory,
a world at the very height of the Victorian Era.
In 1896 Robert
Mitchell recalled their experiences in a series of twenty-eight
articles in the
weekly Accrington Division Gazette, photo-copies of which were
made
available to me by Accrington Library and which I have transcribed
unaltered.
Twenty albums,
containing over six hundred photographs,
are still to be found in the
library at Kinloch Castle, Scotland,
the Highland home Bullough
commissioned in 1897.
They record the
places visited one hundred and twenty-five years ago.
I have re-photographed every photograph, many in great detail and
reproduced each album in my Archive,
a selected number I have used to best illustrate Mr. Mitchell’s text.
Please
read notes at end of this Post -
THANK
YOU!
I am indebted to
the late broadcaster and journalist, Magnus Magnusson, K.B.E,
at the time Chairman of Scottish Natural Heritage,
at the time Chairman of Scottish Natural Heritage,
(the agency
responsible for Kinloch Castle),
who gave me
permission (1996) to archive and photographically record
the
contents of Kinloch Castle,
including the
700 plus half-plate images of George Bullough’s World Tour.
I co-operated with Mr. Magnusson in the writing and illustrating of some chapters
in his 1997 book: Rum: Nature's Island, celebrating forty years since acquisition
on 28 February 1957 of the island by the Conservative Government of the day
on behalf of the nation.
The world they
travelled was indeed very different to that of today.
Steam driven
ships still carried sails; bullock carts and horse drawn
vehicles clogged
city roadways instead of cars. Steam trains were the fastest form of travel.
city roadways instead of cars. Steam trains were the fastest form of travel.
CARAVANSARI PESHAWAR
Album IV *
Photograph 29 * Size 8½ x 6 inches * George W. Randall
Archive |
Caravansary, a roadside
inn where travellers and their pack animals could
safely rest after a day’s
travel. The word is a combination of the Persian, kārvān, caravan,
and sarāy, a building with
enclosed courts.
The one depicted is at Peshawar, at the time in India’s
North-West
Provinces, today Pakistan, along the Grand Trunk Road
which runs for 1,600 miles from
the port of Chittagong in modern day
Bangladesh in the east, (formerly East Bengal), across India,
through the Khyber Pass to Kabul, Afghanistan.
BOMBAY PANORAMA
High Court * Rajabai Clock Tower * Senate House * Secretariat
High Court * Rajabai Clock Tower * Senate House * Secretariat
Album V * Photograph 5 * Size 9½ x 7½ inches * George W. Randall Archive
Left of the
Clock Tower is the Bombay High Court House
designed by the British engineer Colonel (later General) James Augustus Fuller
and completed after seven years in November 1878.
designed by the British engineer Colonel (later General) James Augustus Fuller
and completed after seven years in November 1878.
It was one of
three Presidency High Courts in India established by
Letters Patent issued by
Queen Victoria in June 1862,
the others being in Madras and Calcutta.
Constructed in
Gothic Revival style the building is 562 feet long by 187 feet wide,
its two octagonal towers respectively bear the statues of Justice and Mercy.
its two octagonal towers respectively bear the statues of Justice and Mercy.
It remains the
second largest building in Bombay, re-named Mumbai in 1995.
BOMBAY PANORAMA
High Court * Rajabai Clock Tower
High Court * Rajabai Clock Tower
Album V * Photograph 5 * Edited from full size 9½ x 7½ inches
George W. Randall Archive
At 280 feet the Rajabai
Clock Tower was the tallest building in Bombay
at the time of
its completion in 1878. Modelled after London’s Big Ben by
British architect, Sir George
Gilbert Scott, (who never visited India),
the tower is a blend of Venetian and Gothic styles
built utilising local
buff coloured Kurlstone and decorated at every
level with
figures carved
out of Porebunder* stone representing the twenty-four
castes of
western India.
The foundation
stone was laid in March 1869.
The four clock
faces each measure twelve feet six inches in diameter.
The clock tower
was commissioned by 47 year old Premchand Roychand,
a Parsee
businessman and founder of the Bombay Stock Exchange,
and named after
his mother,
Rajabai, who was blind.
A devout
follower of the Jain religion, the quarter-hour chimes of the clock
enabled
Rajabain to tell the time for her prayers and when to dine unaided.
During the
British Raj** up to 1931, when “they began to give trouble”,
the clockwork
driven “joy bells” as they were called played sixteen tunes
Home Sweet Home and a
Symphony by George Frederic Handel.
The hour bell
weighed three tons.
When the the
original mechanical clock broke down the Senate decided to
replace it with a new
electric clock. Sir Kikabhai Premchand and
Mr. Manekla Premchand, sons of the
original benefactor,
kindly offered to pay for the installation.
This was
undertaken by the Bombay Swadeshi Electric Clock Co., Ltd,
who thereafter
maintained the clock.
The Tower and
adjacent library are noted for
“containing some
of the best stained glass windows in the city.”
Spacious vaulted
halls, imposing stairways and galleries are features of the
Recently refurbished
library which contains priceless hand-written Sanskrit
manuscripts,
diaries and thousands
of books, the oldest going back to 1490.
* Porebunder stone
- a yellowish white limestone with a compact grain.
** The period
known as the British Raj was rule by the British Crown
from 1858 to Indian Independence on 15th of August 1947 following
the
troubles of 1857 which resulted in transfer of the
Honourable East India Company interests to the British Government.
BOMBAY PANORAMA - SENATE HOUSE
Album V * Photograph 5 * Edited from full size 9½ x 7½ inches
George W. Randall Archive
The Senate Hall,
officially called the
Sir Cowasji
Jehangir Hall of the University of Bombay
was funded by and named after Parsee business man and
philanthropist
Sir Cowasji
Jehangir, C.S.I.,* 1812-1878, whose Coat of Arms are depicted in stained
glass on either side of the hall
itself along with the Arms of England, Ireland,
Scotland and Wales, plus those of the University of Bombay,
Scotland and Wales, plus those of the University of Bombay,
Lord Elphinstone (Colonial Administrator), Sir George Russell Clerk
(Governor of Bombay 1848-1850 and 1860-1862),
Sir Henry Bartle Frere (Colonial Administrator and Governor of Bombay 1862-1867),
Sir Robert Seymour Vasey Fitz-Gerald (Governor of Bombay 1867-1872)
and Sir Philip Wodehouse (Governor of Bombay 1872-1877).
Sir Henry Bartle Frere (Colonial Administrator and Governor of Bombay 1862-1867),
Sir Robert Seymour Vasey Fitz-Gerald (Governor of Bombay 1867-1872)
and Sir Philip Wodehouse (Governor of Bombay 1872-1877).
The Senate House was designed by British architect
Sir George
Gilbert Scott, R.A., F.S.A.,
“in an early type of French architecture of the
13th century, the hall measures
104 by 44 feet, its height being 63 feet to the
apex of the groined ceiling.”**
Of his initial submission Scott wrote he had “adopted a free variety of
architecture of the 13th century adapted to the exigencies of a hot climate.
I have made it very lofty that it may be conspicuous throughout the city.
The lantern above I have supposed to contain chimes.”**
The foundation stone was laid on the 29th December
1868 by Bombay University
Chancellor, Robert Seymour Vasey
Fitz-Gerald and the building completed in 1874.
Magnificent Burmese teak beams, a 38 foot diameter semi-circular domed apse,
galleries, organ loft and over two thousand square feet of stained glass,
including a twenty-four foot diameter rose window depicting the twelve signs of
the Zodiac designed by Robert Turnill Bayne and crafted at
the Covent Garden, London studios of Heaton, Butler and Bayne, were shipped to Bombay and compliment the
interior. Since 2005 the Hall has undergone major
refurbishment.
* C.S.I. - Companion
of the Star of India. The naming was agreed and unanimously
passed by a resolution in the
Senate on 4 March 1875.
** Quotes from Sir
Gilbert Scott’s submitted plans referenced in
“A History of the University of Bombay”
by Sunderrao Ramrao Dongerkery (Registrar University of Bombay) Published 1957.
“A History of the University of Bombay”
by Sunderrao Ramrao Dongerkery (Registrar University of Bombay) Published 1957.
The
Bombay Secretariat was completed in March 1874 in the
Venetian Gothic style to
a design by Captain Henry St. Clair Wilkins
in collaboration with British
colonial
administrator Sir
Bartle Frere, Governor of Bombay, and Edward Frere.
With
its multi-tiered arcaded verandahs and huge gable dominating
the west façade, it
remains today a monument to the civic pride
of Bombay’s 19th
century British rulers.
Captain Wilkins, son of the Reverend George Wilkins, D.D., Archdeacon of Nottingham, was
born on the 3rd of December 1828.
After attending the military
college of the
Honourable
East India Company at Addiscombe,* Surrey, he was awarded,
in
June 1847 at age nineteen, a lieutenancy in India with the Bombay
Engineers.
An
accomplished artist and draughtsman, Wilkins was employed in the
architectural
and engineering public works department.
Following
active service in Aden, Abyssinia and India itself, during which he was
mentioned
in dispatches, he was promoted Captain in 1858,
and
Colonel in 1868, serving as aid-de-champs to Queen Victoria.
He
retired in 1882 with the rank of General.
The
Secretariat is 470 feet long with 81 foot wide wings in the shape of three
sides
of
an octagon. The west façade, with its multi-storied arcaded verandahs,
comprises
buff-coloured Porbander stone enriched with structural polychromy.
Fine
detail was carved by native artists in white Hemnagar stone.
Internal
statues, sculpture work and many grand staircases
were
executed in blue and red basalt.
A
170 foot high tower rises above the gable which dominates the buildings axis.
*
The Honourable East India Company
trained its young recruits for military service in India at its college at
Addiscombe, near Croyden, England, opened in 1809.
Courses, which lasted two years and
cost £30 per annum, included military subjects,
mathematics, mechanics and mastering Hindustani.
On passing their final examinations, cadets were posted to the Company’s Bengal,
On passing their final examinations, cadets were posted to the Company’s Bengal,
Madras or Bombay Presidency to serve as
Engineers, Artillery or Infantry officers.
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IMPORTANT PREFACE
After leaving Bombay our travellers headed for Cawnpore the scene of one of the most infamous episode during the Indian Uprising of 1857.
This Preface is included to help understand background, people and events prior-to and during June 1857 at the British Cantonment Cawnpore
and their bearing on the world we live in today.
However, there
is no substitute
for reading the many books on this subject
and I have listed those I have referenced at the end
of this post.See also Notes 18 - 23 at the end of Robert Mitchell's article.
COAT OF ARMS OF THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY Auspicio Regis et Senatus Angliæ "By Command of the Queen and Parliament of England." George W. Randall Archive |
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Map of the Bengal Presidency in 1858 From: Survey of India, Perry-Castenada Map Library University of Texas India, Imperial Gazetteer of India, Digital South Asia Library, University of Chicago |
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Today, Dalhousie, (1812-1860), is seen as a far sighted governor by his supporters for bringing railways and the telegraph to the sub-continent, or as a destroyer by his detractors through
reckless policies which brought death, destruction and almost the loss of India.
Since 1851 in Bengal things were slowly
coming to a head. In that year, on the 19th of January, seventy-six year old Baji Rao II, Peishwa of Poonah and last of the Mahratta kings, who once ruled over fifty million people, died at the six square mile palace estate at Bithoor, fifteen miles by road north of Cawnpore, allotted to him along with an annual pension of £80,000 under peace terms by Major-general Sir John Malcolm the Company's Administrator in 1818.
Under Baji Rao's Will his thirty-one year old adopted son, Dhondu Pant, known in history as Nana Sahib, was named as heir presumptive with the pension from the East India Company continuing.
Despite repeated requests, even the sending of an envoy, Azimullah Khan, (3) to plead direct with Queen Victoria, the Company steadfastly refused to honour the pension. (When Sir John Malcolm agreed the terms, it was not expected forty-three year old Baji Rao would live another thirty-three years, when life expectancy in India was little more than forty, or shortly thereafter adopt a son as his heir.)
Under Baji Rao's Will his thirty-one year old adopted son, Dhondu Pant, known in history as Nana Sahib, was named as heir presumptive with the pension from the East India Company continuing.
Despite repeated requests, even the sending of an envoy, Azimullah Khan, (3) to plead direct with Queen Victoria, the Company steadfastly refused to honour the pension. (When Sir John Malcolm agreed the terms, it was not expected forty-three year old Baji Rao would live another thirty-three years, when life expectancy in India was little more than forty, or shortly thereafter adopt a son as his heir.)
Continuing high
handedness and indifference towards Indian culture by the Company in pursuit of profit put them increasingly at odds with the native populace.
In February 1857 the Company issued the new point 577 calibre Enfield rifle-musket, (Pattern 1853), which required the greased cartridge be torn open with the teeth to release the powder. Rumour rapidly spread that the grease used was fat from pigs and cattle, abhorrent respectively to Muslims and Hindus.
"For having at Meerut on the 24th of April 1857, severally and
On
Sunday, 10th May the Meerut Garrison revolted, opened
the prison gates, released their comrades and set off for Delhi to seek the
support of the last Moghul emperor, eighty-two year old Mirza Abu Zafar
Sirajuddin Muhammad Bahadur Shah Zafar, (Bahadur Shah II), son of Akbar II. (4)
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In February 1857 the Company issued the new point 577 calibre Enfield rifle-musket, (Pattern 1853), which required the greased cartridge be torn open with the teeth to release the powder. Rumour rapidly spread that the grease used was fat from pigs and cattle, abhorrent respectively to Muslims and Hindus.
On the 24th of the following
month at Meerut, forty year old Colonel Sir George Carmichael-Smyth, 2nd
Baronet, commander of the 3rd Bengal
Light Cavalry paraded and ordered ninety of his Indian Sowars to
assemble and fire the new rifle. All but five refused. The eighty-five were
tried by a Native General Court Martial stripped of their uniform,
shackled hand and foot and sentenced to ten years in prison. An unprecedented humiliation,
as the Sowars were Brahmins, the upper-caste elite, who owned their own
horses.
The charge was:
"For having at Meerut on the 24th of April 1857, severally and
individually disobeyed the lawful command of their superior officer,
Brevet-Colonel G. C. M. Smyth, commanding the 3rd Regiment of Light Cavalry,
by not having
taken the cartridges tendered to each of them individually for use
that day on parade when ordered by Colonel
Smyth to take the said cartridges.”
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With caution
thrown to the wind Nana Sahib laid siege to the garrison where years of
complacency had allowed the British barracks, capable of
accommodating over
7,000 troops, to
fall into disrepair and where Company forces and civilians were
totally unprepared for an emergency let alone a protracted siege.
Finally, facing
the reality of their situation they hurriedly barricaded themselves into a
small enclave
within the camp in what became known as Wheeler's Entrenchment
after their
commanding officer, Sir Hugh Massy Wheeler, K.C.B.
Wheeler joined
the Military Branch of the East India Company in 1803 aged fourteen
and was posted
to India two years later to serve under General Gerald Lake.
Fluent
in Hindustani, a veteran of the First Anglo-Afghan and the
First and Second
Anglo-Sikh Wars, sixty-eight year old, Irish born, Sir Hugh
had only been
appointed Cawnpore Garrison commander in June 1856.
Lady
Frances Wheeler was a high-cast Eurasian, a woman of mixed race.
Of the couples
nine children, two daughters, Eliza, the younger, twenty year old Margaret
and
their thirty year old son, Lieutenant Godfrey Richard, 1st Native Infantry,
were with them at Cawnpore.
Most records
state all five were killed, however others state Margaret was saved,
later
marrying her rescuer and revealing on her deathbed, aged seventy-two,
her true identity to a priest in
1909.
Wheeler
commanded four Indian regiments, the 1st, 53rd and
56th division of Sepoys,
(native soldiers), and the 2nd Bengal
Cavalry, plus about three hundred white troops.
Unwilling to accept
the scale of what was unfolding all around, and so confident his troops would
not rebel, General Wheeler all too readily acceded to requests to
send
some of his forces to the assistance of the neighbouring station of
Lucknow
where trouble had already erupted.
(Wheeler was
later described as “a gallant veteran (who) unselfishly dispatched eighty men
of the 32nd under Captain Lowe and the following day (a further)
fifty men of the 84th to Lucknow although he was well aware that in
case of attack his own position was indefensible.”)
Reference: 1933 Edition Murray’s Guide to India.
Some British
civilians chose through the use of disguises and help of loyal servants,
to "melt" into the 60,000 strong native population of Cawnpore, in the hope of saving themselves.
to "melt" into the 60,000 strong native population of Cawnpore, in the hope of saving themselves.
Records show at least thirty survived.
After
resisting and suffering disease, hunger, sunstroke, injury, and many deaths for
almost three weeks, General Wheeler, on behalf of the thousand men, women and
children accepted terms of safe passage offered by Nana Sahib by
river to Allahabad.
SUTTEE CHOWRA GHAT - SMALL FISHING ENCAMPMENT Album V * Photograph 17 * Edited from full size 7½ x 6½ inches * George W. Randall Archive
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|
A number of men and women in a boat led by Major Edward Vibart, 2nd Bengal Light Cavalry, did get to the main river channel. Constantly harassed from both banks as they drifted downstream all but four were eventually captured after twenty miles at the village of Sheorajpore. Dragged back, the men were brutally murdered, the women thrown in with their fellow prisoners into a small house known as the Bibhigar.
By being strong swimmers and inevitable luck the four managed to evade capture. They were helped by Oudh Rajah, Digbijai Singh, (4) “a steadfast friend of the British” and got completely away to tell their tale: Captain Mowbray Thomson, 53rd Native Infantry, rose to the rank of general, was knighted K.C.I.E., died February 1917 aged 85 and interred in the Memorial Church, Cawnpore. Lieutenant Henry George Delafosse, 53rd Native Infantry, rose to the rank of major-general, died February 1904 aged 69, and commemorated on a plaque in Cawnpore Memorial Church; Private Patrick Murphy of Her Majesty's 84th York and Lancaster Regiment and Private John Sullivan of the First Madras Fusiliers (101st) died a few weeks later of cholera.
Of the survivors at the Ghat, the men were immediately killed, the women and children incarcerated for several weeks before being butchered. Battle hardened British troops finally arrived at Cawnpore on the 16th of July, what they saw brought tears to their eyes. Retribution swiftly followed, with further atrocities committed by both sides.
This was the beginning of what today is variously termed the Indian Rebellion, Mutiny, or Uprising; or, as the Indian’s themselves refer to it, the First War of Independence.
It ended on the 1st of November 1858.
On the 1st of May 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India.
It ended on the 1st of November 1858.
On the 1st of May 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India.
India gained her independence on the 15th of August 1947.
Subsequently extended numerous
times the Company existed for 158 years, before, following the unrest of
1857, it was dissolved, administration transferring to the British Crown.
(2) Bombay Castle, formerly the Portuguese Manor House on Bombay Island, when Bom Bem or Bombay as we know it, was one of the seven islands in the eighteenth century were under the Portuguese rule. Subsequent land reclamation by the Honourable Company created the city of Bombay, renamed Mumbai in 1995. See Note 15.
(3) Azimullah Khan was rescued as a seven year old starving Muslim boy, along with his mother, during the famine of 1837-1838 and given shelter at a mission at Cawnpore. A bright young man he became fluent in English and French and familiar with the ways of the English whilst working as a secretary to several British officers. He later became confidant and adviser to Nana Sahib. It is believed he died of fever in 1859.
(2) Bombay Castle, formerly the Portuguese Manor House on Bombay Island, when Bom Bem or Bombay as we know it, was one of the seven islands in the eighteenth century were under the Portuguese rule. Subsequent land reclamation by the Honourable Company created the city of Bombay, renamed Mumbai in 1995. See Note 15.
(3) Azimullah Khan was rescued as a seven year old starving Muslim boy, along with his mother, during the famine of 1837-1838 and given shelter at a mission at Cawnpore. A bright young man he became fluent in English and French and familiar with the ways of the English whilst working as a secretary to several British officers. He later became confidant and adviser to Nana Sahib. It is believed he died of fever in 1859.
(4) Emperor, Bahadur Shah’s power barely
extended beyond the 260 or so acres of the Red Fort and walled city of
Delhi. In 1857, one hundred and fifty years since its creation, the all-powerful
East India Company, through unjust laws, principally annexation, had fragmented
India into hundreds of puppet kingdoms; even to the point eighty-two year old Bahadur Shah in his two-hundred
year old red sandstone fort was perceived by the British as posing no real threat.
However, he and his Fort remained a rallying point to the erupting dissension and from the 8th of June to the 21st September British and Company force laid siege to the city.
However, he and his Fort remained a rallying point to the erupting dissension and from the 8th of June to the 21st September British and Company force laid siege to the city.
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